Oarai, Japan

 Once again, the ship made good time overnight to get us to our next scheduled port. I’ll include yet
another sunrise in Japan, but this one has more clouds than sun. Perhaps we should have heeded that
as advice for taking an umbrella…The temps are getting warmer—up to 70 today—yet it’s still autumn
even here and I haven’t yet stashed all the winter clothing we packed. Good thing, since during our
tour, a huge storm moved in, temp dropped about 15 degrees, wind came up. But we were safe. Our
bus driver had a stash of umbrellas under the coach.

It's doubtful that this city receives many cruise ships, but our tour guide did her very best to connect
with us and to teach us. Her broken English was more than compensated by her energy, enthusiasm,
and laughter.

Again, we saw some deep historic areas. The first was Kairakuen, a large park/garden in the true
Japanese mindset, covering acres upon acres of flowering trees and bushes. Not a lot of flowering now
but the fall colors were lovely. Note the forests of bamboo, cedar, azaleas, plum trees. In the spring it
must be absolutely breathtaking. There isn’t a central pond in the center—as tradition expects—but the
nearby lake suffices. “We call it borrowed architecture,” our guide assured. We had about 90 minutes
to wander and to enjoy. Interspersed were some photos shot areas with costumes, fancy hand-painted
bamboo umbrellas for posing, etc. We found some locals dressed in kimonos and even some children
dressed up. Oh, did we enjoy taking photos of them also!

This particular garden is famous in Japan because it was commissioned by a feudal lord with the decree
that people should have a space to rest body and mind. All people. He also wanted a separate site for
poetry and musical events. One placard at this site for art read, “The name ‘Kobuntei’ comes from an
old Chinese verse. ‘Kobun’ means ‘plum’ and it was said that the plum blossoms would bloom if study
was cherished but they would not bloom if study ceased.”

The storm broke as we parked to get out at our next stop, so we waited in the bus for the worst to pass.
Lots of lightning. Finally, under umbrellas, two buses unloaded at Kodokan, an exclusive school built in the 1850s so that the children of samurai warriors could be educated. We had to remove our shoes before entering this fragile facility and it was worth it. Have you seen the mini-series from 1980 titled “Shogun” and starring Richard Chamberlain? Or have you watched “Mulan” with the tea ceremony? Other tv or movie sets have utilized the paper-thin sliding doors, the straw mats on the floor, the low tables for eating, etc.

This is exactly that. Finally we saw it as it’s yet another stereotype I have of Japanese architecture. No,

people don’t eat or sit that way now in those unique houses. But one such historical monument has
preserved it! You’ll see some photos but the interior was very tight and you’ll need to use your
imaginations.

The tone for strict hospitality was set just as we entered the school and walked into the “waiting area.”

A severe sign warns, “Revere the Emperor, expel the barbarians.” Hmmm.