Oporto, Portugal

 Oporto (Port), Portugal                                                                  Wednesday, June 15, 2022

               Sadly, we found the Caringbridge announcement of Bob Roys’ death this morning.  We are so very sad yet we rejoice for the precious time we were able to share with Bob and Kathy in 2021.  Words fail.  Tears prevail.

               And yet we had scheduled a private tour for today and had invited Mark and Nancy Heacox to join us.  We shared the news and shifted gears as best as we could. 

Did you know that J.K. Rolling lived in  Port, Portugal?  That she was an English teacher, and was inspired by the city’s bookstore shelving for her shifting bridges?  That the same store has lines upon lines of people waiting just to get inside to see said shelves and therefore charges 1 Euro just to get in the door?  That the university students in Port dress in Harry Potter style with women wearing black capes and men wearing the light-colored pants? That port, the appetizer or dessert wine, originates here?  That the most ornate and beautiful McDonalds in the world (at least by some accounts is in Port?)

We met our guide just outside the port gate having taken the port shuttle-(not to be confused with the Insignia shuttle that took passengers into town)-which takes people to the gate so they don't have to walk among the heavy transit vehicles and port traffic.  Our guide was there waiting for us and approached showing Jerry's name displayed on his phone--a new take on the proverbial sign held by most guides when trying to connect with passengers.

               He took us east and outside the main city, teaching about Port being surrounded by four cities, so therefore landlocked with a population of about 5 million total including surrounding cities.  We drove to a high and prominant overlook to see all that we would walk or drive to for the rest of the day: special districts/neighborhoods, the two hills of Port with their subsequent landmarks, the old Roman city wall and the newer wall, visible churches, bridges, the Douro Valley and Douro River, and the picturesque red clay roofs and colorful buildings.  Once again architecture ruled the day!

               Pedro was a fine history teacher, embellishing with fun stories while also documenting the long history of Portugal’s occupiers: the Celts in 4^th Cent. BC, then the Romans in 1^st Cent. BC, then the Visegoths in 4^th Cent., then the Moors in 8^th Cent. who gave the country its name from “Portu Galle,” to becoming a monarchy is 1179-1908 (!), to harmful aristocracy in 1910.  “From 1910-1926, we had 26 different governments,” Pedro said.  Now they are working to reclaim the many undamaged buildings from as far back as 14^th century with incentives from the government up to 25% of the cost.  So far about 80% have been restored and life is getting better.

               Our first photo stop revealed the round Franciscan monastery from 16^th Cent., at a park with crescent-shaped benches that is the perfect place to watch the sunset with friends, the Dom Luis Bridge engineered by a disciple of Eiffel, then behind the large yellow building is the Old Jewish Quarter, the Ribeira or riverfront, the Se Church, and the Clerigos Tower which has 240 steps to go up and a stop light inside for foot traffic on the narrow staircase!

               At about 11:45, we had a break at the Majestic Café, 1923, which is a classy version of Art Nouveau.  The custard pies, coffee, and sandwiches for the others was…exorbitant.  But lovely.

               Probably most notable was the St. Francis Church, also called the Golden Church due to the over-the-top rococo gold-plated/painted wooden statues and filigrees.  No cameras allowed, so Google is you wish.

               A highlight was going into a wine shop to sample the various types and ages of port wines.  Some were 20% alcohol!  The owner was generous in sharing tastes of some of the more expensive of them, teaching what to expect in taste and how it should be served.  Sharp cheeses are recommended, such as blue cheeses.  You can buy port in ages of 10,20,30, and 40 years.  The year does not mark the exact year, but marks the average age of the vintages combined so that the individual port makers can keep a taste that is consistent among its various mixes.  

        We visited the train station which has a spectacular historical montage done in tiles.  We also visited the Mcdonalds and it is indeed spectacular inside.  We walked through the narrow streets.  It was a wonderful day and a wonderful tour.