Bruges, Belgium
Bruges, Belgium Sunday, June 5, 2022
We’ve been looking forward to
returning to Belgium—especially to Bruges—since our last visit here in
1984. We had fallen in love with the
architecture, the crafts, and the quiet, polite people. Today, however, was going to be a difficult
day for taking photos, because the rain was predicted for the entire day. Gratefully, it is expected to be in the mid-60s,
so we won’t freeze as we get wet.
We have a tour today and a number of folks on the bus who are ready for rain and for an adventure. Our male guide had lived in the city for 73 years. He shared history with us as we motored the 30 minutes from the pier to the city. We had learned in the lecture last night that the river had silted in during the 15th century, causing the longer distance between city and water.
Belgium operates under a beloved
monarchy dating to 1830 when it became independent and wanted a king. The one they hoped to have was German, living
in London, and had just been asked if he would be king of Greece. (Quite the vitae, evidently!) He chose
Belgium and to this day, the monarchy remains in his extended family.
Reflecting their background, there
are 3 main languages in Belgium: Flemish, French, and German.
Because I’m
typing this on June 6, the remembrance of D-Day, I’ll add some WW1 & 2 info
of import to Belgium. During WW1,
Belgium was occupied by Germany who took total advantage of its new submarines,
sinking 2554 ships! In 1918, as England was ready to surrender, the allies
asked England to try one more time to poke at Germany and it worked. Germany no longer had control of the North
Sea. But then for WW2, Germany occupied
Belgium again—this time the advantage was that the city did not get bombed.
There are interesting historical
accounts for why and how the world’s first stock market began in Bruges, how
the renowned diamond industry landed in Antwerp, how Belgian chocolates got
their start (originally from Mexico as a drink only), how Bruges was one of the
richest and then one of the poorest cities in the world, and how lace and recently,
beer, have become part of its identity.
Streets in Bruges are narrow because
early in its history, developers somehow saved money by keeping buildings
close. There are still horse and buggy
tours and I simply stopped and stared at the beautiful and regal animals as
their high stepping gait proudly transported tourists. These animals were well loved.
Our guide took us on a 1.5 hour walk through the old town that weaved through streets that felt like alleyways and shops that were just opening up and cafes that were full and watching us ridiculous tourists walking in the rain. As in former cities, this also had canals that ran through it with more swans than they probably know what to do with. The swans have their own story. The traders of Bruge became very independent. A lord tried a takeover. It worked for a while, until the baker and Ducks and cute baby ducks, too. Swans are VERY territorial and alpha. Later in the tour, on our canal part of the tour, we were unfortunate enough to witness one killing another. Our boatman tried to intervene with his paddle, but it was too late.
Sigh.
I’m sorry for all the sadnesses in
our worlds right now. Needless
deaths. Power punches. Praying.
Always.
The walking tour covered much of the
territory and many of the stories that our canal tour covered. Except for the added swishings of umbrellas
as they were inflated and deflated before going under each of the many, many
low bridges.
Our photos of Bruges will be wet,
but the scenery is worth taking the time to visit. And to stay longer to drink it all in.
After the canal tour, we were set for 50 minutes (!) to shop or to have a warm coffee in a café. We found two lovely lace runners that, combined, will grace our big glass table.
Back to the bus for a 30-minute
commute back to the boat, still in rain.
Peeled everything off and hung it around our small cabin. Having magnets with hooks that hang from the
ceiling are very useful!
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