Rome (Civitaveccha port), Italy

 Rome                                                                                                             April 28, 2022

Colosseum

What a day.  We are in the midst of a whirlwind of very long tour days.  Yesterday was 8 hours.  Today we left the ship at 7:45 and returned at 5:15.  Tomorrow is longer.  Today was also my birthday.  I generally try to keep this hidden from the world, but Jennifer makes that a challenge. 

It was another beautiful day.  Jen was caught telling people it was my birthday as I picked up the tickets for our excursion at the front of the lounge.  Oh well.  We took an elite (expensive) tour today since it was my birthday.  There were 8 of us passengers with a guide on a regular sized bus.  It was a good group, all with the ability to get around relatively easily which proved to be a big plus.

We drove into Rome(90 minutes from port), known for its traffic snafus, but on a reasonably good traffic day.  Our first stop was the Colosseum.  

It was not originally called that.  Originally called the Flavian Amphitheater it took eight years to build (72-80 AD).  It got its new name from a giant (colossal) statue of Nero nearly 300 feet tall placed by the structure about fifty years later.  The huge structure could seat up to 75,000 and looks surprisingly like Kinnick Stadium in many respects.  

Numbered section for entering colosseum

Apparently this is not where Christians were killed.  That would be at the Circus Maximus, the largest of which is a few blocks away from the Colosseum and could hold 225,000 people.  One reason Christians were not killed here is because Christians were crucified or burned, and with more archeology it appears that a wood floor covered the Colosseum.  Fire is not feasible. We had the above ground level tickets.  A separate ticket is required to go into the depths.  All the numbers are staggering for this edifice, and basically unimportant.  The place is huge.  They could empty it in ten minutes.  Much of it is missing because they reused the marble in other buildings.  People in later times did this with most of the great buildings from earlier in history.  Especially after major earthquakes or sackings from invading hordes.  That is one reason it is difficult to recreate ancient edifices. 

Circus Maximus

After the Colosseum we were driven across the way to Plaza del Polopa or “Gate of the People.”  We walked down the street to many of the sites you’ve heard of.  The “Spanish Steps” named because they are next to the Spanish Embassy.  

The Spanish Steps

Flowers are placed on them for spring and are there for about a month.  They were still up and lovely.  Next was the “Trevi Fountain” a spectacular and massive fountain carved out of marble.  The massive fountain was created in the 1700’s and it was as packed with people as any place we have been on this entire adventure.  

Next came the “Hadrianum” a former temple which has been reconstructed but except for the outside columns does not have much of the original structure left.  

Next came the “Pantheon” the one structure that has made it through all the destructions.  It is a marvel of ancient engineering with a huge circular hole in the roof.  It is also a church which is one of the reasons it made it through intact as plundering was forbidden in churches.  It almost doesn’t seem real as you walk along with the thousands of other visitors.  

We found a couple more sites before walking back to our meeting point.  The beauty and artistic touches on so many of the buildings is so different than the way buildings are done today.  It is striking and creates constant interest for the pedestrian.  Maybe it doesn’t make much difference when people are going past in vehicles that move too fast to appreciate the beauty.

Next on the list for the day was the basilica of St. Peters.  You’ve surely seen this in pictures.  It is over the top in every respect.  It is difficult to come up with a description of what you see.  Probably everyone sees something different.  

The first challenge of the visit is to pass through security.  They have a number of portals where you walk through a scanner door and send anything from your pockets and bags through the conveyor scanner just like in an airport.  

All guards come from Switzerland. The outfit is supposedly originally designed by Michaelangelo.

They have metal barriers to create snaking lines like they do at theme parks.  It was not a busy time when we arrived so we got through in about five minutes.  When you enter the building you recognize that it is a big place, but because everything has been done with proportion in mind it does not appear as big as it really is.  When you realize the canopy over the altar at the front is 10 stories high and looks perfectly normal you shake your head.

  You can take flash pictures because there are only two paintings in the whole structure and they are in places you can’t take pictures; rather, the massive pictures that adorn the walls and chapels are all copied in mosaic.  Most are so finely done you can’t tell they are not paintings.  

"Pieta" by Michaelangelo who was virtually unknown at age 24. This is the only piece he ever signed. 

One of the fun things to do is to walk down the center and see the markings on the floor showing how far the other great Catholic churches extend in reference to the size of St. Peters.  

St. Peters is by far the longest and as you walk down the floor you understand how massive the structure must be.  We visited the crypts underneath the main floor as well.  Many popes have chosen to be interred there, but seriously, do even the most devout Catholics and the tour guide have any idea beyond the last few popes?   The first pope, or leader of the Christian church is considered to be St. Peter.  His remains are purported to be buried here but you can’t get close to that space during a regular tourist visit.  Remember Jesus saying about Peter being the rock upon which he will build his church.  This is the manifestation of that sentiment.

New statue outside St. Peters

After our visit we headed out of Rome and took the hour plus drive back to our port, Civitavecchia.  This was not the original port for Rome, but as the original port of Ostia once upon a time at the mouth of the Tiber river silted in it was the closest port space they could find. 

When we got back to our state room the first surprise of the birthday evening met me when we opened the door.  Jennifer had been sneaky and given our room stewards some signs and a happy birthday banner to put up.  They outdid themselves.  Pic will explain better than I can.  We had to hustle a bit as we were scheduled for dinner for two in the Italian specialty restaurant at 6:30, per our original itinerary since today was supposed to be a sea day.  With the tour arriving at a little before 6 we had just enough time to get ready. 

We arrived and were shown to our table in the very back of the ship with huge windows looking out on the port and no other people in sight.  Jennifer had honored my request to eat by ourselves, but even she was surprised by how empty the place was.  Somebody had cancelled and other tables were not scheduled until later.  We would be totally alone for almost an hour.  Jennifer looked out the window and lo and behold she asked, “Is that a regatta?”  There was a parade of boats four or five wide coming closer by the moment.  The announcement bell suddenly went off and our cruise director announced that there was a boat parade off the port side of the ship.  We decided they were doing it just for us even though it was actually to honor a local holiday.  

The final surprise at dinner was the cake that was delivered for dessert.  It was not ordered.  The ship just does it.  The waiter had lit a single candle, but was a little surprised when the cherry tomato used as decoration had its inch long paper-like stem catch on fire as he was coming my direction.  It was amusing to watch his face as he squeezed the stem between thumb and a finger to put it out.  They cut us both a piece of the chocolate mousse cake.  Talk about rich.  I figure we got through about ½ the cake since they took the cake away to cut our pieces for us. 

The night finished with the big surprise of the evening.  Jennifer had said she wanted to have me get to play bridge on my birthday so had set up to play in the card room with a pair we have been playing with regularly outside of the regular bridge schedule.  We had to hustle to make the 8:00 date.  

When we arrived the subterfuge became obvious.  Yes we were going to play bridge.  There were nearly twenty people there to wish me happy birthday.  And to play bridge. Jen had set up a list for people to sign up to play with me, and to play against me.  People had come after a long day on their tour.  Some had waited to say happy birthday before going to dinner.  Some had rushed through dinner.  Many brought cards or even little presents.  Jen had purchased goodies at a bakery and also some spirits for general consumption.  It was a wonderful gift.  We played until ten o’clock before having to call it a night for the sanity of everyone involved.  Most will have a long tour tomorrow too so getting some rest is important. 

What a great day in Rome.  What a great evening.  What a special birthday.