Bora Bora

 

Bora Bora

We have heard this unusual name in our own military history, but here’s an interesting backdrop:  "In ancient times the island was called Pora pora mai te pora, meaning ‘created by the gods’ in the local Tahitian dialect. This was often abbreviated Pora Pora meaning simply ‘first born’.”  Because languages have various ways to spell and pronounce, this affects how places names can change.  We found this to be true also in China. “Tahitian does not distinguish between the sounds [p] and [b] so Pora Pora could also be heard by English, French, or Dutch speakers as Bola Bola or Bora Bora. When explorer Jacob Roggeveen first landed on the island, he and his crew adopted the name Bora Bora, which has stood ever since. During World War II, the United States chose Bora Bora as a South Pacific military supply base, and constructed an oil depot, an airstrip, a seaplane base, and defensive fortifications. At least eight 7-inch guns were set up at strategic points around the island to protect it against potential military attack. Eight of these guns remain in the area to this day. However, the island saw no combat. The American presence on Bora Bora went uncontested for the entire course of the war.”  (Wikipedia)

Bora Bora

We have heard this unusual name in our own military history, but here’s an interesting backdrop:  "In ancient times the island was called Pora pora mai te pora, meaning ‘created by the gods’ in the local Tahitian dialect. This was often abbreviated Pora Pora meaning simply ‘first born’.”  Because languages have various ways to spell and pronounce, this affects how places names can change.  We found this to be true also in China. “Tahitian does not distinguish between the sounds [p] and [b] so Pora Pora could also be heard by English, French, or Dutch speakers as Bola Bola or Bora Bora. When explorer Jacob Roggeveen first landed on the island, he and his crew adopted the name Bora Bora, which has stood ever since. During World War II, the United States chose Bora Bora as a South Pacific military supply base, and constructed an oil depot, an airstrip, a seaplane base, and defensive fortifications. At least eight 7-inch guns were set up at strategic points around the island to protect it against potential military attack. Eight of these guns remain in the area to this day. However, the island saw no combat. The American presence on Bora Bora went uncontested for the entire course of the war.”  (Wikipedia)

Jen writes: Yesterday and today we anchored in Bora Bora and some of my stereotypes were validated:  grass huts suspended over aquamarine water with coral reefs shimmering underneath.  Ukuleles accompanying harmonious voices in joyful melodies.  Unfortunately, the first image is only for tourists in a 5-star hotel costing $2500/night; the music was enjoyed on our large catamaran as four Polynesians took about 30 of us vacationers out into the lagoon to swim with sharks and stingrays then to snorkel among coral reefs and all their colorful fish and waving fauna.  They took us out of the harbor and started to give the safety talk when someone spotted some dolphins a ways further out.   Another passenger asked if we could go out towards the dolphins for the safety talk even though it was opposite of the way we were supposed to go.  They agreed and so before the safety talk we spent about ten minutes hunting for the dolphins.  As we were looking Jerry spotted a pod of about a dozen in a slightly different place.  Nobody else really saw that pod for a couple minutes and then there they were, just a ways in front of our boat.  What a sight.  After our dolphin encounter we received the safety briefing. We were sternly instructed to NOT touch the sharks—if we did, we would be relegated to sit in the boat for the rest of the 3 hour tour.  After the briefing it was off to our first snorkeling stop.  I can honestly admit that it never occurred to me to reach out to the sharks as they leisurely glided below me in the crystal clear water.  It took all I could muster to not hyperventilate and thus call attention to myself. The stingrays skimmed the ocean floor and never showed an interest in us.  Fine by me! 

Motoring to another lagoon that was closer to the barrier reef and thus had stronger currents, we donned our snorkels and borrowed fins to head out to the coral mounds.  Yes, they occur in mounds about the width of a card table and height of a coffee table.  We were duly instructed to float around the coral mounds and not over them so that we don’t accidentally jar any of the formations.  I added a life jacket due to the whitecaps on the waves. As most of you already know, the colors underwater take one’s breath away.  Blue-purple outlines some formations.  Darting fish that are black with that similar neon blue spots play peek-a-boo with my shadow.  Fan-shapes of all sizes and colors sway with the waves and are hiding places for many. 

Jerry adds:  I enjoyed the snorkeling.  It was just our second time doing it as we have chosen mostly land tours to this point.  The cruise company has strongly suggested you use your own snorkel gear on all snorkeling expeditions.  They are talking about mask and snorkel because you just can’t be sure how well they have been cleaned if someone else has used it.  Big deal with Covid.  We hadn’t planned for that so we finally purchased our own gear back in Papeete.  On our way back from the snorkeling two of our four hosts grabbed ukulele and drum and started to sing boisterously.  Really good drummer and they sang in joyful harmony.  They were really good and their enthusiasm was contagious.  We returned to shore and then to the ship.  I have to say that the heat and being in the water takes it out of you, even if you aren’t working hard at the snorkeling.  We needed a rest after returning to the ship before dinner. 

Day two on Bora Bora included a drive around the island tour which takes about 3 hours with stops to drive the 15 mile circular route around the island.  We got a lot of bits of history as we went.  Striking was the number of high-end resorts that have closed in past 2 years.  There are still several open, but more have closed.  The first resort opened in 1961.  Americans had come to Bora Bora in 1943 and put cannon and bunkers on the island so they could hold it in the event of an attack.  No battles occurred here in the war.  They also put the first airport—the first in all of French Polynesia--on Bora Bora.  We stopped at a local artisan who showed us how they make their maraes (wrap-around fabrics worn by both mean and women).  First is tie-dye, then stretch in sun, then put plastic objects on top which the sun will automatically bleach on as a transfer.  Then he showed us four different ways to wrap them on our own bodies.  He was a hoot of a guy and we had good sports in our group.  Another “must” see on Bora Bora is the iconic bar/restaurant called Blood Mary’s.  On two large wooden placards outside the place are the names of famous people who have been inside.  We will include those lists in case you are interested.  Soon after, we found ourselves back at the dock.  We did a bit more shopping took our tender back to the ship then watched as the ship departed through the single pretty narrow channel that allows shops to get inside the reef and anchor in the caldera of the ancient volcano that formed the island.

We now have NINE sea days until we land in Los Angelos on Saturday, February 12.

Jen writes: Yesterday and today we anchored in Bora Bora and some of my stereotypes were validated:  grass huts suspended over aquamarine water with coral reefs shimmering underneath.  Ukuleles accompanying harmonious voices in joyful melodies.  Unfortunately, the first image is only for tourists in a 5-star hotel costing $2500/night; the music was enjoyed on our large catamaran as four Polynesians took about 30 of us vacationers out into the lagoon to swim with sharks and stingrays then to snorkel among coral reefs and all their colorful fish and waving fauna.  They took us out of the harbor and started to give the safety talk when someone spotted some dolphins a ways further out.   Another passenger asked if we could go out towards the dolphins for the safety talk even though it was opposite of the way we were supposed to go.  They agreed and so before the safety talk we spent about ten minutes hunting for the dolphins.  As we were looking Jerry spotted a pod of about a dozen in a slightly different place.  Nobody else really saw that pod for a couple minutes and then there they were, just a ways in front of our boat.  What a sight.  After our dolphin encounter we received the safety briefing. We were sternly instructed to NOT touch the sharks—if we did, we would be relegated to sit in the boat for the rest of the 3 hour tour.  After the briefing it was off to our first snorkeling stop.  I can honestly admit that it never occurred to me to reach out to the sharks as they leisurely glided below me in the crystal clear water.  It took all I could muster to not hyperventilate and thus call attention to myself. The stingrays skimmed the ocean floor and never showed an interest in us.  Fine by me! 

Motoring to another lagoon that was closer to the barrier reef and thus had stronger currents, we donned our snorkels and borrowed fins to head out to the coral mounds.  Yes, they occur in mounds about the width of a card table and height of a coffee table.  We were duly instructed to float around the coral mounds and not over them so that we don’t accidentally jar any of the formations.  I added a life jacket due to the whitecaps on the waves. As most of you already know, the colors underwater take one’s breath away.  Blue-purple outlines some formations.  Darting fish that are black with that similar neon blue spots play peek-a-boo with my shadow.  Fan-shapes of all sizes and colors sway with the waves and are hiding places for many. 

Jerry adds:  I enjoyed the snorkeling.  It was just our second time doing it as we have chosen mostly land tours to this point.  The cruise company has strongly suggested you use your own snorkel gear on all snorkeling expeditions.  They are talking about mask and snorkel because you just can’t be sure how well they have been cleaned if someone else has used it.  Big deal with Covid.  We hadn’t planned for that so we finally purchased our own gear back in Papeete.  On our way back from the snorkeling two of our four hosts grabbed ukulele and drum and started to sing boisterously.  Really good drummer and they sang in joyful harmony.  They were really good and their enthusiasm was contagious.  We returned to shore and then to the ship.  I have to say that the heat and being in the water takes it out of you, even if you aren’t working hard at the snorkeling.  We needed a rest after returning to the ship before dinner. 

Day two on Bora Bora included a drive around the island tour which takes about 3 hours with stops to drive the 15 mile circular route around the island.  We got a lot of bits of history as we went.  Striking was the number of high-end resorts that have closed in past 2 years.  There are still several open, but more have closed.  The first resort opened in 1961.  Americans had come to Bora Bora in 1943 and put cannon and bunkers on the island so they could hold it in the event of an attack.  No battles occurred here in the war.  They also put the first airport—the first in all of French Polynesia--on Bora Bora. 

We stopped by the side of the road and tried to entice a land crab out of his den with flowers.  Managed to get one to come out.

We found a post office box from a former time.  You will note the unusual shape of the box and the front access point.  This gives new meaning to the concept of a bread box.  This type of drop box was used for the daily delivery of French baguettes in the past.  Now that virtually everyone has access to transport this type of daily delivery is no longer needed.  

We stopped at a local artisan who showed us how they make their maraes (wrap-around fabrics worn by both mean and women).  First is tie-dye, then stretch in sun, then put plastic objects on top which the sun will automatically bleach on as a transfer.  Then he showed us four different ways to wrap them on our own bodies.  He was a hoot of a guy and we had good sports in our group.  Another “must” see on Bora Bora is the iconic bar/restaurant called Blood Mary’s.  On two large wooden placards outside the place are the names of famous people who have been inside.  We will include those lists in case you are interested.  Soon after, we found ourselves back at the dock.  We did a bit more shopping took our tender back to the ship then watched as the ship departed through the single pretty narrow channel that allows shops to get inside the reef and anchor in the caldera of the ancient volcano that formed the island.

We now have NINE sea days until we land in Los Angelos on Saturday, February 12.